Tuesday, April 5, 2011
GYPSY GIGOLO JOURNAL #46
Hello, once again, loyal reader. This journal is sub-titled "I HAVE SEEN THE LIGHT". Upon completing another trip in the South Island, it occurred to me that I must have circumnavigated the country by road and seen a few 'lights' on my journeys. I started four years ago at the northern-most point - Cape Reinga. Completed in 1941, the lighthouse at Cape Reinga was the last watched lighthouse to be built in New Zealand.
The first lighthouse to see the sun each day is the East Cape lighthouse. Dan and I got up early one spring morning to be the first people in the world to welcome that day.
The Castlepoint lighthouse on the Wairarapa coast was built in 1913 and was the last cast iron tower to be shipped from England.
Standing on the southern tip of the North Island, Cape Palliser often bears the brunt of the Cook Strait gales. 258 wooden steps climb almost vertically up the 78 metre cliff.
Cape Egmont lighthouse was erected in 1881. The cast iron tower was moved from its original site on Mana Island, north of Wellington. Mount Egmont (Mt Taranaki to pussies) is in the background.
Moving now to the South Island, one of the most interesting lights is at French Pass. This narrow and treacherous channel of water between D'Urville Island and the north end of the mainland is marked with two lights. The very narrow channel, only 100 metres wide, being navigated by the fishing boat has the beacon light on its port (left) side and the tower light on land.
The original lighthouse at Cape Campbell was a wooden tower which didn't stand up too well to the harsh local conditions. The wooden building was replaced by this cast iron tower in 1905.
This is the most handsome structure in the country, the light at Katiki Point, Moeraki. The wooden tower had to be strengthened to stand up to the ferocious storms, hence the proud supporting legs.
Marking the entrance to Otago Harbour, is the Taiaroa Head lighthouse. Access to the stone tower light is prohibited as it is located in the midst of the Royal Albatross sanctuary.
Further south down the coast in The Catlins is Nugget Point. The spectacular track to the lighthouse scares the bejesus out of me.
Near the bottom of the South Island in the Foveaux Strait, this lighthouse at Waipapa Point warns of the dangerous Waipapa Reef - the scene of NZ's worst shipwreck. 131 lives were lost in 1881 when the SS Tararua ran aground.
Around the corner and up a bit is this little gem at Hokitika. The light was decommissioned in 1924 when shipping in to Hokitika ceased.
Wesport's light at Cape Foulwind is another tower to be rebuilt. The grand old original rimu structure, built in 1876, succumbed to rot. This ugly concrete tower was built fifty years later.
Our story ends, appropriately, at Farewell Spit. This is yet another tower that had to be rebuilt after the original wooden lighthouse rotted. The lighthouse can only be accessed through organised tours along the 30 kilometre sand spit.
Well punters, I hope you enjoyed that little excursion around both islands of the country. Time now to consider the onset of winter and more time in the Far North. Thank you for watching. Good luck to all your families.
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